If you collect or buy antique jewellery, particularly Victorian and Edwardian lockets, sooner or later you are likely to come across the words “9ct Gold Front & Back” “9ct Gold Back & Front” or a similar description. But what does it actually mean?
What is a 9ct Gold Front & Back Locket?
A locket described as 9ct gold front and back has outer front and back sections made from 9 carat gold, while some of its internal structure is made from another metal.
This was a popular method of constructing lockets, particularly during the late Victorian and Edwardian periods and into the early 20th century.
It allowed the visible surfaces of the locket to be made from real gold without requiring the entire piece, including its hidden internal components, to be made from gold.
This is quite different from gold plating.
Which Parts Are Usually 9ct Gold?
Although construction varies from one locket to another, the decorative front and outer back of a gold front and back locket will normally be 9ct gold.
The internal frames, rims, hinges and other structural components may be made from base metal.
The bale — the loop through which the chain passes — can also vary. It may be 9ct gold, but this should never simply be assumed. On antique pieces it is quite possible for a bale to have been repaired or replaced during the locket’s long life.
This is why we examine each piece individually rather than assuming that every locket was constructed in exactly the same way.
Is 9ct Gold Front & Back Real Gold?
Yes.
The gold front and back sections are genuine 9 carat gold.
In the UK, 9ct gold contains 37.5% pure gold, which is why modern 9ct jewellery is often marked 375.
On older jewellery you may instead find marks such as 9CT, 9C, or other markings appropriate to the period and manufacturer.
Not every antique locket will carry a full hallmark. Many older examples instead bear a simple trade stamp such as 9CT or 9CT FRONT & BACK, while others may have no useful markings remaining at all.
Is Gold Front & Back the Same as Gold Plated?
No.
This is an important distinction.
Gold-plated jewellery consists primarily of another metal with a very thin coating of gold applied to its surface.
A gold front and back locket was constructed using actual gold sections for its visible front and back surfaces.
Consequently, describing a genuine gold front and back locket simply as “gold plated” would be inaccurate.
Why Were Lockets Made This Way?
Lockets are surprisingly complicated little objects.
Unlike a simple pendant, a traditional photograph locket may require hinges, frames, retaining rims, photograph compartments and other internal components.
Making every one of these parts from gold would have increased the cost considerably while offering relatively little visible benefit. It could also provide greater strength and durability for working parts such as the hinge and internal framework.
Using gold for the important exterior surfaces and less expensive metals for some of the internal structure therefore provided an attractive compromise.
The owner could enjoy the appearance and feel of real gold on the visible surfaces while the locket remained more affordable than an equivalent piece made entirely from solid gold.
Today, this construction is simply part of the character and history of these antique pieces.
Are Gold Front & Back Lockets Valuable?
They certainly can be, although value depends on much more than the gold content alone.
Age, condition, design, craftsmanship, rarity, engraving, maker, provenance and overall desirability can all influence the value of an antique locket.
A particularly attractive Victorian or Edwardian example may be considerably more interesting to a collector than its intrinsic gold value would suggest.
This is an important point with antique jewellery generally: the value of an antique piece should not necessarily be judged simply by the value of the precious metal it contains.
Its history, craftsmanship and survival over many generations are part of its appeal.
How Can You Tell if a Locket is Gold Front & Back?
Some lockets are conveniently marked.
You may encounter wording such as “9CT FRONT & BACK”, “9CT BACK & FRONT”, or markings indicating the gold content on part of the locket.
Others may have no useful markings at all.
This is where experience and appropriate testing become important.
Construction, colour, wear patterns and the way a locket has been assembled can provide clues, but appearances alone should not always be relied upon when determining the precious-metal content of antique jewellery.
At Amiska, where a piece is unmarked, we test the relevant metal sections so that we can describe its construction as accurately as possible.
What Does “9ct Back & Front” Mean?
You may occasionally see the wording reversed and find a locket marked or described as “9ct Back & Front”.
It means essentially the same thing: the principal outer front and back sections are 9ct gold, while the entire locket is not necessarily made from 9ct gold.
The precise wording used by manufacturers varied
Should You Buy a Gold Front & Back Locket?
For anyone who loves antique lockets, there is certainly no reason to dismiss a piece simply because it is gold front and back rather than solid gold.
Many beautiful Victorian and Edwardian lockets were deliberately constructed this way and have survived remarkably well for more than a century.
They can also provide an opportunity to own a genuine antique piece with visible surfaces of genuine 9ct gold at a more accessible price than a comparable solid-gold example.
As always with antique jewellery, we believe the most important consideration is the piece itself.
If you love its design, condition, history and character, the method by which it was originally constructed is simply another part of its story.